If you’re a Riveted inline skates owner (or let’s be real, if you just bought a pair from my supply line and want them to last longer than that random pair you thrifted in 2021), you’ve probably asked this at some point: why does my skates feel crunchy after a month, or why did my wheels go flat when I pulled them out for a weekend grind sesh? I get it—when you’re pumped to hit the pavement, storage is the last thing on your mind… until it’s the only thing stopping you from landing that new street trick. I’ve been selling Riveted skates for 5 years now, and I’ve seen every single storage mistake under the sun: people leaving them on a concrete porch all winter, cramming them in a garbage bag under a hot bed, even shoving them in a closet with their partner’s 10 winter coats. Today, I’m breaking down exactly how to store your Riveted inline skates properly, no fancy gear needed, just stuff you probably already have lying around. Riveted Inline Skates
First, let’s start with the basics that 90% of you skip: your skates have three main parts that hate being mistreated in storage— the boot, the bearings, and the wheels. Riveted skates are built pretty tough, but they’re not invincible. The nylon boot can crack if it’s left in extreme temperatures, the bearings seize up if they get damp and don’t dry out, and the wheels? They flat-spot so fast if they’re not supported right, it makes my eyes twitch when a customer sends me a pic of their brand new set with two flat spots. I’m gonna make this super actionable, step by step, no jargon, I promise. No “industrial-grade polymer components” or whatever—just real talk from someone who works with these every single day.
Let’s open with post-sesh prep, because storage doesn’t start when you kick off your skates—it starts right after you finish skating. This is the part most people rush through, and it’s the reason their skates die early. First thing: take off your wheels and bearings? Wait no, wait—wait, if you just skated in the rain or through puddles, yes, you need to dry the inside first. If you did a park session on dry pavement, just wipe down the boot and wheels. Here’s what I always tell new customers: grab an old microfiber towel (the ones you use for cleaning glasses work perfect, no lint) and wipe every inch of the boot. Don’t just pat the inside—if you have removable liners (all modern Riveted skates have these, right?), pull them out and lay them over a chair or a shower rod to air dry for at least 4 hours. I see so many people shoving the wet liner back in the boot “to save time” and then wonder why it smells like a gym sock after a week. And don’t even get me started on what damp liners do to the boot’s inner lining—mold and mildew is a one-way ticket to having to buy a new liner mid-season. That’s a $30 mistake I’d rather save you from.
Next, bearings. If you skated through any dampness at all, you need to give your bearings a quick wipe. Take a dry paper towel (not the fancy quilted kind, the thin ones work) and run it over the exposed part of each bearing. If you let water sit in the bearings over storage, they’ll rust, and next time you spin them, it’ll sound like a tiny lawnmower is attached to your skate. If you did a super muddy session, sure, you can take the bearings out and give them a quick rinse with isopropyl alcohol, but 99% of the time, a good wipe is enough. Don’t overdo it—too much alcohol will eat at the bearing’s sealant, and that’s just another unnecessary step.
Now, the actual storage spot. This is where most people mess up. Let’s get one rule straight: never store your Riveted inline skates anywhere extreme. What’s extreme? Direct sunlight (like propped on a sidewalk next to a window all day), a hot garage where temps go over 100°F in summer, a basement that floods, a shed that gets freezing in winter. All of these will wreck your skates fast. Sunlight breaks down the boot’s nylon—over a few months, it’ll get brittle and crack when you’re lacing up. Hot spots make the wheels soft and warp them, so when you skate, they’ll wobble like crazy. Freezing temps? The plastic and rubber parts get hard and crack, and the lubricant in the bearings turns to sludge. No thank you.
The ideal storage spot is somewhere cool, dry, and consistent. Like a closet in your hallway, under your bed (but not crammed under there—leave a little air gap), a shelf in your bedroom, or a dedicated skate rack. Wait, a skate rack is great, but if you don’t have one, no big deal. Here’s a pro tip from my warehouse: when you set them down, never set them on the wheels. Set them on the boot side, or lay them flat. Why? Because if you leave them standing on the wheels for months, gravity will flatten the spot on the wheel that’s touching the ground. That’s a flat spot, and it’s not easy to fix. I’ve had customers come to me with brand new skates that have flat spots because they propped them against a wall standing up for two months. Save yourself the $80 wheel set replacement and lay ‘em flat or set ‘em on the boot.
Now, what about if you’re storing them long-term? Like, if you’re not gonna skate for 2+ months—say, winter break, or a trip abroad. That’s a different scenario. I get this a lot from customers in places with super cold winters who put their skates away for 3 or 4 months. What do you do then? First, clean everything thoroughly: take the liners out, wash them on a gentle cycle (cold water, no bleach, air dry only—putting them in the dryer melts the foam), wipe the boot down with a mild soap and water mix, dry all bearings and wheels completely, even take the wheels off to make sure there’s no dirt or moisture stuck between the bearing and the wheel hub. Then, when you put them away, deflate the wheels a little—like, drop the PSI from your usual 85 to 70. Why? It takes pressure off the inner tube so it doesn’t develop a flat spot over months. And store them in a breathable bag—wait, not a airtight plastic bag, that’s a mold magnet. A cotton mesh bag, or a canvas duffel bag with the top unzipped a little for air flow. And keep them in that cool, dry spot we talked about—definitely not a freezing garage. For long-term, I also recommend putting a silica gel packet in the bag if you have one—you know, the ones that come in shoe boxes or new electronics. They soak up any residual moisture, no extra work.
Wait, one thing I see all the time: people storing their skates with their helmet and pads. That’s fine, but make sure none of the gear is resting right on the wheels or boots, and again, make sure everything is dry. If your helmet is damp, it’ll transfer moisture to your liners, which defeats the whole purpose. Another quick hack: if you have kids who skate and their skates are tiny, don’t store them in a toy bin with other stuffed animals or toys. All that stuff traps moisture, and you’ll be surprised how fast tiny skate liners get moldy in a bin.
Now, let’s talk about common myths I hear all the time, because I want to make sure you don’t fall for these. Myth 1: “I need to oil my bearings before storing them.” No, unless you just cleaned them. If you’re storing them after a dry session, don’t add oil—it’ll just attract dirt and gunk over time, and next time you go to use them, your bearings will be crunchy. If you did a deep clean and took the bearings apart, then yes, add a tiny bit of bearing oil before storing, but that’s only for when you’ve taken them apart. Myth 2: “Storing them upright is fine, I just prop them against the wall.” No, that’s how flat spots happen. Even if you only store them for a month, upright is worse than laying flat. Gravity is a powerful thing, and rubber wheels don’t forget where they’re pressed against a hard surface. Myth 3: “If I keep them in the original box, that’s enough.” Original boxes are great for shipping, but they’re cardboard, they can get damp if your basement is humid, and they block air flow. Half the time, original boxes get thrown in the back of a closet and forgotten anyway—you’re better off with a breathable bag.
Wait, what about if you live in a tiny apartment and have zero extra closet space? I get it, I’ve lived in a studio too. The best spot there is the back of your closet, hanging up? No, don’t hang the boots by the laces, that can stretch the eyelets and the laces over time. Lay them flat on top of your sweaters, that works fine. Just make sure they’re not under a pile of heavy coats that will squish the boots and warp the frame. The frame on Riveted skates is aluminum, right? It’s pretty sturdy, but if you have 50 lbs of clothes on top, it can bend a little, and that’ll throw off your alignment when you skate.
Another thing: if you ever notice your skates have a weird smell after storage, don’t just keep using them. Take the liners out, wash them, wipe the boot with a mild disinfectant spray, and leave them in a sunny spot (but not too long, like a few hours, not a whole day) to air out. Sunlight kills bacteria, so a few hours on a nice day will get rid of that gym sock smell way better than anything else.
Now, let’s wrap this up with a quick checklist, because I know you’re busy and don’t want to reread this whole post every time. Here’s your 5-step quick storage routine for after every sesh:
- Pull out liners, dry them for at least 4 hours (or overnight if damp)
- Wipe down boot, wheels, and exposed bearings with a dry microfiber towel
- Remove any small dirt or debris stuck in the wheels or frame with a soft brush (an old toothbrush works great)
- Lay skates flat or set them on the boot (never on the wheels) in a cool, dry spot
- If storing for more than 2 months, add silica gel, deflate wheels slightly, and use a breathable bag
And for long-term (3+ months) storage:
- Deep clean liners, wash on gentle cycle, air dry completely
- Take wheels and bearings off, clean all parts, dry thoroughly
- Deflate wheels to 70 PSI, put all parts back on (loosen the axle a tiny bit so it’s not super tight)
- Store in a breathable canvas/mesh bag with a silica gel packet
- Keep in a consistent temp spot (60-75°F is ideal, avoid extremes)
Look, I sell Riveted inline skates because I believe in them—they’re built for people who actually skate, not just store skates on a shelf as decor. But even the best skates will die early if you treat ‘em wrong in storage. I’ve seen customers come to me with skates that are 3 years old and still look brand new, all because they followed these simple steps, and I’ve seen others come in with skates that are 6 months old and need a full replacement because they left ‘em on a porch all winter. It’s all about the little stuff.
If you’re looking to stock up on extra Riveted skates for your crew, or just need replacement parts to keep your current pair going, I’m here to help. We carry the full line of Riveted inline skates, liners, wheels, bearings, everything you need to keep skating all year round. Hit us up to chat about pricing, bulk orders, or whatever you need—no pressure, just skate folks helping other skate folks.
Ice Skates References:
- International Inline Skating Federation. (2022). Best Practices for Inline Skate Maintenance and Storage.
- Outdoor Industry Association. (2021). Gear Storage Tips for Recreational Sport Equipment.
- Riveted Skates Product Care Guide. (2023). Inline Skate Longevity Guide.
- Rubber Association. (2020). Effects of Temperature and Gravity on Rubber Wheel Degradation.
- Athletic Footwear Association. (2022. Liner Care and Mold Prevention for Performance Skates.
Yongkang Jinsibo Industry & Trade Co., Ltd.
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